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    With so much attention focused on bridal wear, your groom may be feeling a little left out, not to mention completely clueless, when it comes to figuring out what he'll be wearing down the aisle.
    Tuxedo time: your groom's questions about formalwear


    With so much attention focused on bridal wear, your groom may be feeling a little left out, not to mention completely clueless, when it comes to figuring out what he'll be wearing down the aisle. Here are the answers to a few common questions about formalwear for weddings, and the terminology he'll need to communicate with the guys at the tuxedo shop.

    Rent or buy?
    The rule is, if you plan on wearing the tuxedo two or more times each year, you should consider buying it. The benefits of ownership are many. Your own tux is custom- altered to fit flawlessly, you don't have to worry about returning it, and you will find that you will wear it more than you thought you would. If you want to buy a tuxedo, keep in mind that many of the places that rent tuxedos also sell them. Purchase your tuxedo far enough in advance to have the alterations made well before the wedding.

    If you are considering anything but the most traditional tuxedo style for your wedding, however, you should probably rent. Virtually no one owns a morning suit, for example; and you aren't likely to get much use out of tails. The most traditional, and most useful, ensemble is likely to be a single- breasted, peak-lapel tuxedo. For the times when you really want something different, you can rent a tailcoat or cutaway.

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    Who pays?
    Finally, a simple rule in the wedding world: everyone pays for his own tuxedo rental. That includes you. Of course, you could decide to be Mr. Really Nice Guy and pick up the tab for your wedding party. But if you hand the bride's father this receipt, expect him to hand it right back to you.

    How do you handle rentals for out-of-town guys?
    Some, but not all, national formalwear chains allow the groomsmen to stop into any of their stores to be formally measured if all the tuxedos will be rented from one of their locations. However, most formalwear shops will do a courtesy fitting and those measurements can be sent to the shop where you will rent from.

    Although professionally measured dimensions are always preferable, some, but not all, formalwear shops may order the tuxedos based on information that the men provide (shirt size, height, weight, shoe size, etc.) without having their measurements taken. Any groomsmen with aversions to ill-fitting tuxedos should have their exact measurements taken by a tailor.

    Returns can be tricky. Most shops want the tuxedo to be returned the day after the wedding; a charge will apply for late returns. If you are planning a day-after-the-wedding brunch, the situation is not a problem, because the groomsmen can all bring their tuxes with them. If not, ask everyone to bring a change of clothes to the reception and to hand over their formalwear to one designated "return person." And don't forget to hand your own tuxedo in!

    What about shoes?
    Most guys don't like those extremely shiny slip-ons that come with most tuxedo rentals, but they are actually the correct style of shoe to wear. In addition, some tuxedo shops have begun to offer a selection of styles for formalwear shoes. If you want to buy your own shoes, which you will usually find to be more stylish and comfortable than rentals, be sure to tell the salesperson that you are looking for shoes to wear with a tuxedo. They should be black, with a plain toe. Wingtips are not acceptable. Most formal shoes are patent leather.

    What about the bow tie?
    Most of the bow ties that come with rentals are the pre- tied variety. A real bow tie, one that you tie yourself (or someone ties for you) is generally preferable. Buy yourself a bow tie and practice tying it correctly. This skill, like knowing how to waltz or how to open a bottle of champagne correctly, is one of those James Bond things that set you apart from the crowd.

    How do I know that the tuxedo is the right size?
    Your arms should move easily, without that tight, pulling sensation across your back. The hem of the jacket should reach the middle of your fingers. About a half inch of your shirt cuff should show at the bottom of the jacket's sleeve. Your pants should fall just to the backs of your heels and break slightly over the tops of your shoes.

    Fit is of the utmost importance. Never, ever skip that final fitting, because there is nothing worse than realizing your tuxedo doesn't fit on the morning of your wedding day.

    Are there any current trends in formalwear that the fashionable guy should know about?
    Formalwear experts around the country report that the basic formalwear components are very traditional. The cuts of trousers and jackets are contemporary, similar to that of any good suit you would buy. Three-button jackets have become fashionable, following menswear fashion, especially in Europe. But the real variation is in the accessories.

    Vests, worn in place of cummerbunds, are extremely popular from New York to California. The vests come in a variety of tasteful patterns and textures, and allow the guys to personalize their outfits. Another fashion- forward look is the button cover with matching studs in place of the bow tie. Along with the button cover, some grooms are choosing stylish band- collared shirts.

    Will the world come to an end if I wear a tuxedo instead of a morning suit to my afternoon wedding?
    It will not. Most couples take formalwear rules as general guidelines. Since most afternoon weddings extend well into the night, a tuxedo is appropriate. There are limits, however. Formal morning dress looks ridiculous at an evening affair, as does a tuxedo at a morning wedding. The "rules" can be complicated, and your best bet is to talk with the people at the tuxedo shop, who will help you decide what is both comfortable for you and appropriate for the occasion.


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